{"id":114,"date":"2011-06-13T06:00:00","date_gmt":"2011-06-13T04:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/nabiegowkach.pl\/blog\/inne-spacery-po-hardangervidda-cz-1-114\/"},"modified":"2011-06-13T06:00:00","modified_gmt":"2011-06-13T04:00:00","slug":"inne-spacery-po-hardangervidda-cz-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/nabiegowkach.pl\/inne-spacery-po-hardangervidda-cz-1-114\/","title":{"rendered":"Inne Spacery po Hardangervidda, cz. 1"},"content":{"rendered":"Ile\u017c razy mo\u017cna kr\u0119ci\u0107 si\u0119 po tych samych \u015bcie\u017ckach w sto\u0142ecznym Lesie Kabackim? Gdy cz\u0142owiek posmakuje bieg\u00f3wek, od razu my\u015bli o jakich\u015b wycieczkach dalszych, w tereny niezbadane (przynajmniej przez niego), w jak\u0105\u015b g\u0142usz\u0119, gdzie \u017cyw\u0105 dusz\u0119 spotka\u0107 trudno, a za to o przygod\u0119 \u0142atwo.<\/p>\n
Szusowanie po G\u00f3rach Izerskich ju\u017c te potrzeby zaspokaja, ale i rozbudza. Bo szlak przetarty, wyratrakowany, a na noc powr\u00f3t do ciep\u0142ego schroniska. A przecie\u017c chcia\u0142oby si\u0119 um\u0119czy\u0107 jako\u015b strasznie, zasmakowa\u0107 niepewno\u015bci, poba\u0107 troch\u0119, w natur\u0119 si\u0119 wtopi\u0107 tak, by poczu\u0107, \u017ce si\u0119 wcale jej panem nie jest, a jedynie marn\u0105 \u0142upin\u0105 na bezkresach \u015bniegu.<\/p>\n
I wtedy, w takich chwilach cz\u0142owiek siada nad starym dobrym atlasem i wodzi palcem. W\u0119szy za jakim\u015b kawa\u0142kiem ziemi, gdzie m\u00f3g\u0142by marzenie wprowadzi\u0107 w czyn: wybra\u0107 si\u0119 na ma\u0142y, kilkudniowy spacer na nartach, z sankami, pod namiot, troch\u0119 przewietrzy\u0107 p\u0142uca. Palec wi\u0119c wodzi po p\u00f3\u0142nocnych rejonach globu, ale tak, \u017ceby by\u0142o i blisko, i tanio, i wystarczaj\u0105co dziko oraz przygodowo.<\/p>\n
Nagle ol\u015bnienie: Hardangervidda. Co to? Gdzie to? Ano, najwi\u0119kszy w Europie p\u0142askowy\u017c. 1000-1300 m n.p.m. W Norwegii. Mniej wi\u0119cej w po\u0142owie drogi mi\u0119dzy Oslo a Bergen. Kawa\u0142 dzikiego terenu szerokiego na jakie\u015b 150 kilometr\u00f3w i r\u00f3wnie d\u0142ugiego. Placek niewysokich g\u00f3r okolony fiordami, jeziorami i g\u0142\u0119bokimi dolinami. Jedyna droga, kt\u00f3ra przez niego prowadzi otwierana jest w czerwcu i zamykana przed zim\u0105 \u2013 bo wtedy le\u017cy na niej kilka metr\u00f3w \u015bniegu. Hardangervidda ma dobre notowania w\u015br\u00f3d polarnik\u00f3w. Do swoich wypraw przygotowywa\u0142 si\u0119 tu Amundsen, a pono\u0107 tak\u017ce i nasz Marek Kami\u0144ski.<\/p>\n
![\"Sucha](\"https:\/\/nabiegowkach.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/06\/01.sucha-zaprawa.jpg.jpg\")
Wi\u0119c na p\u0142askowy\u017c! Cel – okolice Rjukan. Lodowa Mekka wspinaczy. Co roku powstaj\u0105 w g\u0142\u0119bokim kanionie setki lodospad\u00f3w. Z ca\u0142ej Europy zje\u017cd\u017caj\u0105 tu alpini\u015bci, by wspina\u0107 si\u0119 po licz\u0105cych dziesi\u0105tki metr\u00f3w lodowych soplach. W\u0142a\u015bnie w Rjukan podczas II wojny \u015bwiatowej Niemcy produkowali ci\u0119\u017ck\u0105 wod\u0119, kt\u00f3ra z kolei by\u0142a pomocna przy tworzeniu bomby atomowej. Jednak norwescy komandosi, przeszkoleni na Wyspach Brytyjskich, wysadzili tutejsz\u0105 tam\u0119 w powietrze i instalacj\u0119 do produkcji ci\u0119\u017ckiej wody zniszczono. Komandosi kryli si\u0119 w\u0142a\u015bnie na p\u0142askowy\u017cu Hardangervidda.<\/p>\n
Wiemy, \u017ce s\u0105 tam jakie\u015b schroniska, ale nie sprawdzamy nawet, czy otwarte. Je\u015bli do nich zajrzymy, to tylko z ciekawo\u015bci. Bierzemy wys\u0142u\u017cony namiot, troszk\u0119 jedzenia, ciep\u0142ych ubra\u0144, ulubione okraw\u0119dziowane czeskie \u015blad\u00f3wki, podklejamy foki, wszystko pakujemy do sanek, a sanki do samochodu. W ko\u0144cu wyruszamy \u2013 ja i moja droga Pani Joanna.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Ile\u017c razy mo\u017cna kr\u0119ci\u0107 si\u0119 po tych samych \u015bcie\u017ckach w sto\u0142ecznym Lesie Kabackim? Gdy cz\u0142owiek posmakuje bieg\u00f3wek, od razu my\u015bli o jakich\u015b wycieczkach dalszych, w tereny niezbadane (przynajmniej przez niego), w jak\u0105\u015b g\u0142usz\u0119, gdzie \u017cyw\u0105 dusz\u0119 spotka\u0107 trudno, a za to o przygod\u0119 \u0142atwo.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1542,"featured_media":3275,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[30],"tags":[295,298,297,296,294,293],"class_list":["post-114","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-relacje-z-wypraw-i-wyjazdow","tag-bergen","tag-hardangervidda","tag-norwegia","tag-oslo","tag-rjukan","tag-wyprawy"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n
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